Very slow morning. We woke to very bright morning sunshine, but the clouds came in and a light drizzle began.
We left our BnB just before 11am and walked to the waterfront area where we got our tickets for the short cruise to Dartmouth. After that, we walked up to a small hut of the footpath and bought a fresh crab sandwich. Deb has been waiting for this for a long time. We got it take away, and walked to the ferry wharf hoping for a seat by the water, unfortunately they were either all taken or wet. So we stood there and ate our sandwich, yes Deb shared her treasured sandwich with me. It was delicious, and Deb was one happy girl.
The ferry pulled into the wharf around 11:30 and after a lot of the passengers meandered off, we boarded and were on our way by 11:45am to Dartmouth.
We rounded Berry Head, on the south side of Brixton and headed out into The English Channel for our 1 hr cruise. The lighthouse on top of Berry Head at 16ft tall is one of the smallest in England and at 295 ft above sea level it is also one of the highest. The coastline here is dotted with fortresses and fortifications for protecting the mainland from Napoleonic forces to WWII invasion. So much history. There are rare and endangered bird rookeries, old civil works and even the local nudist beach along the coast here. The beaches just south of Dartmouth were used to rehearse the D-Day landings and Dartmouth harbour was a launching port for many of tne ships/boats that took part in the D-Day landings flotilla.
Dartmouth / Kingswear Harbour is a magnificent sight as you come into it. Beautiful old houses, churches and other buildings dotted everywhere and a very large marina on the Kingswear side.
We got off the ferry and went and had lunch at The Royal Castle Hotel (as recommended by Val & Vic). We love the English Pubs, they are so different to those at home. They feel inclusive and welcoming, well upholstered seats and benches, the lighting is subdued, and the bar lined with long handled taps of numerous beers and the wall behind the bar covered in all sorts of spirits and the like.
After lunch we had a walk around town, the interesting part is not very big, 15 minutes from one end to the other at a gentle pace. We started with a walk through the garden behind the information centre ( a designated highlight!?). mmm , yeah, a garden, nice but a highlight!?
About then Deb spotted an old church spire, so we walked straight there. It was St Saviour’s Church, consecrated in 1372 and by 1440 it was finished as we saw it today. It is a fairly simple church, but the wood carvings and general decorative woodwork throughout is amazingly detailed and well preserved. It had a good sized wooden organ with golden pipes on the left side of the naive. There were two beautiful rose windows either side of the naive at the main entrance end. Another old church with lots of character.
We continued our walk back through town and strolled the old streets. It is so good that the Brits have managed to preserve so much of their history over such a long time span. At home we struggle to preserve what little of our old historic buildings we have left, and our oldest at around 200 years are just a drop in the bucket to over here, we have a lot to learn.
Dartmouth is home to a Naval Academy, the academy that all the current older male members of the British Royal family went to. It is said at a young 13 year old Princess Elizabeth was first introduced to Philip Mountbatten (at the time he was Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark) there.
Around 3pm we had seen enough and caught a local ferry across the harbour to Kingswear to catch a bus back to Brixham. Well, the bus due at 3:33pm didn’t show, and it wasn’t until about 4.15pm that a bus arrived. The earlier one had broken down.
We boarded the bus and were away in good time. We both have great admiration for the skill of the local bus drivers. They negotiate narrow country and village roads like magicians, often with mm to spare either side. I laughed this afternoon when the bus drove down a two way street with cars parked on our side for maybe 150m, taking up all our lane and then you could see a sign ahead saying the road was going to narrow! I think the buses have right of way, and all the car’s drivers are very courteous and chilled. Everyone gives way calmly and well natured, and it all works. (It would be total mayhem at home)
Anyway, we got home in good time, rested for a bit and then went out for dinner at the same place as last night, the meal had been so good. We both ordered the Beef Cheeks, they were to die for. This is when we discovered the reason you shouldn’t go back to the same restaurant immediately after an amazing meal. Don’t get me wrong, it was still very good, but ……. it just wasn’t as good as the first time, I guess it rarely is. Regardless, a great way to finish our day.
An aside.
Dogs apparently can and do go everywhere here! Pubs, ferries, parks, buses, trains, restaurants etc it takes a lot of getting used to! Not sure if them going into food service area is right, but it seems to work here. All the dogs seem to be very well socialised and well trained. It is very similar to what happens in the USA, maybe something we have to look forward to?
